Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

 

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek with Trek The Himalayas

 

 

Mission accomplished 14:45 hrs August 12^th 2022 (Sonamarg (Shitkadi village) to Naranag)… Hoorraay.

A walk (approx 80Kms) through the trail that was… Maximum altitude of 13750 ft achieved by our physical selves, but what our eyes saw & soul experienced beyond the scope of any man-made device to capture in it’s true essence…

 

 

 

 

Day Zero: Someday during 1^st week of March 2022 Mr Ramana queries during usual tea chit-chat… “Porrunno ente koode… Kashmir Great Lakes Trek”… The words Kashmir and Great Lakes caught my attention and well in the next few minutes I just gave my word…  “Count me in…” That night after going through the details of the trek from the websites and then numerous videos, I had one hell of a sleepless night… What did I commit myself for!!!

The beauty of the Kashmir GLT lays in the fact that the views are so beautiful that people seldom think about the trail that takes you to those breath-taking views; but for me both the beauty & the beast were equally important; this was a new beginning after the sudden break during November 2019 (investigation on an injury in the right knee revealed that in both knees ACL were cut, meniscus were torn & cartilage having deep erosion) and then the two years that the pandemic took away…

The next few months were mostly spent thinking about & preparing for this journey, 1^st time in Srinagar,1^st time in Kashmir and well the first actual trek as per my registered memory; talks about going for preparatory short duration treks were disposed of, I just wanted KGL to be my first official trek. Working out in the gym...

 

Getting the strength back into the legs, glutes, shoulders and core was on priority. Along with cycling, walks of varying style & intensity with and without weighted backpacks, with hair-without hair, during the evenings, early mornings & during noon… 

The longest two walks were of the order of 16 & 17 Kms without taking any sort of rest (only pit-stops were for urinal breaks & drinking water and the breaks were bare minimal & no sitting; being on my feet continously for 3.5 to 4 hours) and my training ground was the picturesque Kanakakunnu-Suryakanthi-Museum grounds @ Thiruvananthapuram. Suryakanthi stretch gave me practice on how to handle the ascends & descends and with the masks on for most part I was getting ready for thinner air at the higher altitudes… Endurance along with aerobic fitness was the target.

Along with the physical preparations, the purchase/rental for the colder climates and shoes/socks for the difficult terrain was going on in parallel…

August 05 2022: Finally after 5 months since the first question about KGL was asked… we (a group of 14)  reached Srinagar, pitched our bags in a houseboat,had acclimatisation wrt army presence & yeah did a tour of Dal Lake

 

 

 

 

with the mountains looking upon us, still hiding away the Heaven that we were to experience over the next week, along with the pangs & perils of the long winding trail…

The beauty goes along with the beast hand-in-hand.

Day 1 (August 06 2022): Pick-up from Srinagar & drop at Sonamarg (Campsite @ Shitkadi village)- After having laying siege to a hotel where we could have chicken & mutton (it took more than a hour as

our driver waited impatiently “Khana nehi dhekka khya” sort of look on his face) for the last time before the actual trek started, we reported at the campsite where our trek leaders Naveen & Yash awaited.

The campsite was just by the river and the gushing waters played background music and the lush green valley nearby and mighty mountain tops in the background provided a perfect backdrop… With sunlight available as late as 8pm, it was a very very long day.

During the introduction and briefing session the do’s & don’ts were shared, the need to keep moving at a tortoise phase, the need to keep warm and the need to fill in your lungs with each breath was stressed upon; there were a few first time trekkers for company (some of whom proved to be born trekkers as the days progressed).

 

 

First night in the tent was rather mostly sleepless, the background music of the river turned out to be bit more than I could handle and my tent-mate started his sleep motors bit earlier than I expected him to, but yeah I did slip into short duration sleeps which recharged me enough for the first actual day on the trail.

 

Day 2 (August 07 2022): Waking up early around 4 am and having paid a visit to the toilet tent with tissue paper (water/paper which is better is still a question, I had kept an empty pouch of paperboat juice to water my outlet if so required, but was fine with toilet paper from first day of the trek till last day) and covering my deeds with soil as instructed during the briefing session.

We start our trek under the able guidance of 2 guides (Hilal & Manzoor) & 2 trek leads (Yash & Naveen) at around 07:00 am; the first bit of elevation was covered at a relatively good pace and everyone were setting his/her pace for rest of the ascend of about 3700 ft, to be covered till we reach the Nichnai campsite.

After the army check-post where all of our identities were ascertained and repeatedly ensuring that we understood that it is a no-drone zone that we were to walk through, we continued our trek into the valley filled with pine trees and then little bit of meadows & then Maggi point (where we had hot Maggi & Omelette Rs 100/- per plate) and then bit of forest cover where the gradient became more steeper. The lunch point was on the banks of a small river where we refilled our water bottles and continued the climb. As the day wore on the sight of clouds for shadow and the distant view of the tents kept us moving. The first day is mostly the toughest and the most demanding & surely few of us were in tears of self-doubt & pain, but yeah we pulled & pushed each one through the first day.

Nichnai campsite was also on the shore of a river, by the time we reached the first set had done their bit of stretching the tired muscles in preparation for the day ahead, it was fun massaging each other, shoulders & back. Later the evening tea, snacks & soup provided us with some much needed warmth and energy. Oxygen levels were monitored as we were ascending and anything below 80 was not acceptable, for which being active in the campsite was a must. After bit of chit-chat, briefing for the next day & dinner the camp settled in for the night…

Day 3 (August 08 2022): 5-6-7am was the instruction and yeah we tried to meet the instructions, only issue was that the clouds opened up during the night and it was a wet morning and with the possibility of the horses/mules slipping on the way the trek leads conveyed that we need to wait for the climate to clear and asked us to be ready with packing and breakfast… Waking up early around 4-4:30 am had become a habit with discussion on which rock to choose/not choose & how someone attended the nature’s call, sipping very hot tea served right at 5am and then rushing into the tents to change into trek gear and deposit the mule bags & clear the tent at the very earliest were a priority…

Nichnai Pass (The first pass of the trek 13,100 ft):

As we start trekking along the river and then across it over the boulders and stones, the path opens into yet another meadow and then the steep ascend starts, pushing and pulling each one, smiling at those resting, few encouraging words from a co trekker, we carry each other yet again towards the beautiful glaciers, valleys, meadows & flowers…

 

On the route up the Nichnai pass just across the river we get to see meadows of red flowers and yeah we did cross the river when the horses/mules were coming up to give away and to take some beautiful snaps.

 

 Atop the Nichnai pass is where you get the last of the mobile signals (BSNL) and then it’s we on our own cut-off from rest of the world for the next 3 days and so is the last Maggi point on the way up (Rs 120/- a plate).

On way down from Nichnai pass Glaciers, picturesque mountains, beautiful flowers, hordes of sheep, snow-outs, valleys… 

The landscapes keep changing and after covering few kilometres of meadows we reach the Vishansar Lake campsite… The first lake on the KGL trail is a few minutes up from the campsite.

Vishansar Lake: After having trekked for two full days and 20+ Kilometres you get to set your eyes on a beautiful lake set beneath its glacial mountains, spending sometime on the shore, dipping your feet in the calm soothing waters and absorbing in the view from all possible angles…

It was around 6pm that we reached and waited for some time for the sun to go under the hills, but it was taking time and the temperatures started dropping and we had instructions to report back at camp as army personnel would be turning up for verifying our credentials.

The rest of the eve was spent winding down and preparing for the next day early start of 06:30 am, the walk from Vishansar Campsite to Gadsar campsite is supposedly the longest day spent walking on this trail.

Day 4 (August 09 2022): As the leader ordered, the team obliged with an early start of 06:30 am (climbing Gadsar pass 13750 ft under the bright sun would have been a horrendous task) the team set out to the other bank of Vishansar Lake, crossing the river over the boulders and after taking in the view and capturing some more sweet moments on the cameras, the team moves upwards where we get to set eyes on Kishansar lake and yeah there was a smaller lake in between.

Gadsar pass: By the time we start ascending up the trail (non-existent at certain points) our bodies at this point would be more than ready as it has acclimatised to the demands of the trail over the past two days… Giving way to the horses & mules and traversing the sometimes non-existent trail are the challenges that remain in this corridor and yeah we push & pull each other physically & mentally over the summit…

The wonderful view of both the lakes from atop Gadsar pass is a rewarding experience and so is the fact that we summited the highest point of 13750 ft on this trail.

Just after the steep descend from Gadsar pass we get to see the Yamsar Lake & Gadsar Lake (one of the most visually enchanting views on this trail), the calmness, the color...

Too pristine to even try and describe. The trail then for the day becomes a bit boring with the view remaining mostly the same and the sun baking us alive with no shades on offer, finally after a very very long walk under the burning sun, we reach the campsite near army emergency helipad in Gadsar.

Having summited and ensuring that the full camp moves ahead we spent a leisurely evening playing with frizbee & trying to master a boomerang and while we were at it a frizbee from the neighbouring camp fly into our kitchen tent, the wind carried it at such a pace that we for a moment were worried about our dinner…

During the briefing for the next day, Naveen conveyed that it is going to be an easy 6 hour trek “ithna aasaan bhi math lenaa” pointing at a ridge & the mountain besides our camp and informed that we maybe able to witness the Nanga parbat on the Karakonam range in PoK… And that it will be the only day where hot lunch will be made available directly from the kitchen.

During the night found myself trekking inside the tent, the tent was on an incline and each time I woke up, I found that the sleeping bag had slid on the rubber mat provided and one time I thought that someone had lifted my bag with all it’s contents as it was not to be felt where I had placed it… The bag remained where it was but I slid few feet down and had to readjust myself 2-3 times during the night.

Day 5 (August 10 2022): The early start of 06:30 am was now a routine and the team set out to the first river crossing on a log (it was wide enough to manage without much hassle), then the trail just moves upwards and then again upwards and then it is mostly level other than the few boulders that needs to be covered on the banks of the river on the final kilometre on today’s trail.

We happened to set our eyes on the Karakonam range, still not sure if we saw Nanga Parbat... during the trek onwards I was caught in no man’s land for about half hour when the horses split the group, few climbed the trail right across what appeared to be the mountain top and I continued on the trail behind the horses and they well disappeared on the plain trail and then it took some time for the next group of horses to give me hope that I walked the right trail…

Moving mountain side when you hear the whistle or someone shouts horses is something that has now become part of your basic instincts.

After reaching the camp by around noon, it was pretty much a rest day. Few of us visited Veersar lake about 40 minutes’ walk from the camp, I decided to give my legs some much needed rest in preparation for the last two days of activities, especially the dreaded 3000 ft descend. Late afternoon/evening was spent admiring the beautiful view from the campsite, playing cards and mafia.

Day 6 (August 11 2022): The last pass on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek was right above our campsite, but the trail was around the mountain across boulders & rocky patches some right on the face of the mountain, the beautiful views were partly hidden by the clouds and the concentration with which we were moving from stone to stone.

Zaj pass: One wrong step can either cause an ankle sprain or could even mean a full-stop, but helping hands, reassuring words and smiles from co-trekkers are more than enough to push us through this difficult terrain. It takes about 3 hours of climb, taking rest as we complete the boulder section one by one & the rocky terrain and then we need to climb further up the mountain side to actually be on top of the Zaj pass, actually we need to keep climbing and then keep climbing & then still there is enough left to climb. 

It was all cloudy and the snow clad Harmuk peak and the major two lakes of Gangabal & Nandkol were hidden from our view, but blessed as we were with the climate till now, the clouds cleared in time for us to set view on the two lakes & Harmukh peak…

From now on the trail is mostly downwards except for the slight climb towards the Gangabal lake and few short ascends here and there.

Gangabal lake & Nandakol:

The twin lakes of Gangabal or the Great Lakes of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek are very big lakes compared to those seen earlier during the trail and the view from top of Zaj Pass & on the descend is the most magnificent.

We spend some time on the shores of Gangabal lake taking some pictures and gazing in the visual beauty and mentally resonating the fulfillment that we did this together hand in hand…

The journey back to normal life would be difficult, mostly because the descend is more killing, but more so because we leave behind the beautiful trail & with not much other than reaching back to civilisation as target for the next day…

Single Log bridge: After having gone through numerous videos (available on youtube) and mentally preparing myself for crossing this stretch to the campsite from the shores of Nandakol lake, I was prepared for losing my trek pant as I would have to sit on the log and drag myself through, but thanks to the forest department for having placed another wider log which made crossing this part too very easy. On checking with our trek leader, Naveen was telling that there were at least two incidents of trekkers falling into the river while using the single log, which might have forced the forest department to place another wider log besides the old one to prevent any further mishaps. Anyways that one act saved bit of adventure & did reduce the anxiety levels…

Back at the campsite, it was conveyed that the team was not going to use the buffer day and would be marching down to Naranag via Army Checkpoint and food break at Maggi Point.

The certificates were distributed and everyone shared the fond memories of how the trek leader and support staff from TTH had kept us safe & sound and guided & supported us during the entire week.

Day 7 (August 12 2022): The last day on the Kashmir Great Lakes trail was treacherous, there was bit of boulder section and slight climb till the Army check point and then a bit more of climb till Maggi Point from where the trail just descends, the only respite being the fact that we had tree cover and yeah the view is till beautiful and the air is still clear…

The killer descend: With rains over the past week the trail had resemblances to military purpose trenches full of loose mud and small stones strewn all over and each step had to be taken with caution. 4 hours from the Maggi point & about 3000 ft of descend walking, sitting, sliding, falling… 

 

Anyways made it to Naranag; at some places the trail was so non-existent that I took the less traveled route using the support of tree roots, sliding across the loose mud, leaving behind bit of your butts & hands here and there. The descend from Heaven was truly appalling…

I was on all fours for most part of the trek, having rented two trekking poles and using them continuously. It was the two poles which bore my weight & helped me reach back in good shape, especially having to manage the steep descend(s).

Naranag: This completes a week long alpine journey and we descend to a world where our leftover luggage was to be collected & rented items returned and security deposit reclaimed. Thanked our trek leads, guides & fellow trekkers for one week of bliss and we move own to our world filled with its earthly chaos…

(There are a few who go up from Naranag side to camp besides Nadakol/Gangabal Lake & go up till Zaj pass to take in the beauty of the twin lakes.)

The drive back to Srinagar, tired, hungry, thirsty & what not... the driver in his true spirit of finding the best tea for us, literally taught us a new page on patience, something far beyond what even KGL could achieve...

During the descend I kept telling my knees that this is it, just a few more steps and I wouldn't bother you anymore with the trekking boots...

But having reached back home & having lived in heaven for a week, the mind is looking out for the next destination, the body will follow as this is a game of will.

Life on the trail is something that has to be experienced and while we have effervescent souls for company, keep going where you can set your eyes on...

On the way to Ramoji Film City


Waiting for the inaugural function
The inaugural function

Where is life taking me...

Mmm... So then guys, what happened after Munnar was a complete outage of around 1 week. Haven't been taken ill for so long, but u see GOD always gives u time for a break.

The hunt for IIM
Months before when the CAT notification was published I would have been amongst the 1st to have bought the application form & well later on the last person to have send in the application form via the speed-post. Anyways the tour in itself was worth remembering. Initially when v set out... enthokke aayirrunnu "Malappuram kathi... Ambum villum"... anginne enthellam padhthigall... Thought of going to Bekkal fort aswell. But as for the morning COLOUR filled scenes at the railway station & the rainy atmosphere v remained grounded for the day. What to say when people dont find enuff reason to go out even for breakfast!!! Sajith my comrade with whome v were to spend the night had a grand collection... of what. I wont spell it but it was enuff to have the 3 of us glued to the SYSTEM for around 3 hrs.


After a round of heavy kozhikodan breakfast which included fish aswell v took back to the system.... The visions of Bekkal fort had already faded in the morning, now it just disappeared.
Anyways in the afternoon after an overdoss of what v had been upto & the rain subsiding v went to have a few rounds of the Kozhikode town, went to mananchira... took a few photos displayed here... Well had a very late lunch .... &

Later as the rain got heavy v got a terrible idea to have icecream... Bought 1litre of the same with gulabjaamun to go with & in the process got drenched, but yeah life was on par with the hostel stuff...

Next day morning it was again fun... Well dont know how all these people manages to keep their concentration level up in this colourful environments... I thought I got selected even before writing the exam cause my number was listed to mark the classrooms... Anyways the xam in itself was a painfull xperience bcz it was too easy. Maybe others might have a different idea, but the only problem with me was that I never knew to solve most of the questions, anyways never bothered to check the result aswell.

During the afternoon V had a grand lunch on a sea facing restaurant on the roof top & it was late by the time v finished up. Anyways found enuff time to buy some kozhikodan halwa & to say a hi over a treat of icecream to my oll' classmate Praveen... V left Kozhikode for the better with a few packets of biriyaani.

What v lost at Kozhikode was... HARI's "SINGULARITY".... And again as usual the train journey never gave us ie... Anoop & me the option of multiplicity. Its time v did something to the person who prepared the railway reservation program... Atleast being a bachelor makes me think so...

Experiences of a married life from a bachelor's view point

WIFE: Wonderful Instrument For Enjoyment... Well it would differ on what u take as the njoyment isss... Life is different for each person even as they live being a single entity, so maybe as one of my friends told woman is man's best friend but she is not a HUMAN... so v will have to live with it the way it comes.

WIFE: Worries Invited For Ever... Same as for enjoyment worries would aswell depend on what u can defnie as a worry is... So as things goes with relativity & infinity so is the case here. U can look at it the way u want to... whatever u do give life a chance to be beautifull!!!

If both u & ur better half sees the same side of things its good. But if both always see the same side well its better to remain single!!! Chattiyum kalavum okke aayaal thattiyum muttiyum okke irunnillell pinne enginnaa kaaryangall okke nadakkaaa!!!

The much awaited...

Munnaarrrr....

The tour itself was filled with complications except to the fact that myself was determined to go to the much talked abt Munnar during the period which suggested it to be a must visit place... The number of ppl accompanying me, there interests etc etc aswell mattered and as it turned out many of emm pulled out at the last moment siting unavoidable circumstances... anyways I had to go...
The journey started from Tvm in the Mangalore bound Malabar Exp... then a stopover at Kollam & a late night trip in a wierd bus from Kollam to Vytilla... Myself, Annop from the North India trip, Deepu, Renjith. Pipu awaited at the junction in the wee hours of Sept 14th!!! We had set forth from Tvm on Friday the 13th... September 2006.

After a short nap v set out on what was to be a long wait or rather a queue that winded along the hill side for almost 4 hrs. The drive to Munnar was aswell happening with Pipu even managing to have a bumper to bumper kiss!!! He was chasing a 4 wheel drive jeep which commuted enuff ladies to his liking!!! We were to be the stars in the "Q"... enuff of a performance.

So 4 hours in a long queue with nothing much to do... Well time just flew, with the numerous rounds of dembcharedes & the onlookers just curious as to what these fellows were upto!!! Alas v made it to the bus (Kerala forest has arranged a few buses that woul take u to the eravipuram national park...) which took us to the final destination...

Dont know what to tell... But surely v ppl njoyed every bit of it...






With the mountain goats & the neelakurinjis the 1st phase of the journey was nearing completion... The only nutrition v had was in the form of the breakfast v had early in the morning arnd 8!!! And well I have to be more of a poet or a writer to scrap down the beauty of what v saw!!! Let the photos help u out...





Munnar-Kumili....

So after having a very late lunch at arnd 4 pm v set of thru the less travelled Munnar-Kumili route... In between had a tea which costed abt Rs 50 per cup from the Club Mahindra where my cousin Mr Abhilash works... The journey thru the less travelled road or the route on which the roads where less!!! U can read it either way & it should be correct.... & coming to our aid was the mist... U could barely see 20 m before u... Anyways v reached our shelter for the night, by which time a fever had taken me by surprise... thanx to the shorts I wore thru the morning at Munnar & the cold climate.. sometimes u have to live with it.

Thekkady...
Nothing much to talk abt this place... Now been in news for sometime with reagrds to the Mullaperiyar dam issue!!! Anyways met a lady who took my heart with one smile of hers... Its a moment frozen in memory...dont knowif she was smiling at me or she has that masterpiece painted on her face for ever, it will take sometime for me to forget her. I found her in the natures abode & lost her in the wilderness...
During the boat ride we say a herd of elephant in the distant hill... Just enuff reason to make a trip a lill' more worthwhile, cause usually ppl only see a few pigs & deers...
With nothing much to do other than a boating and with the weather catching up v decided it was time to make a move & well the fever was aswell not helping any of my cause.


The trip thru KUTTIKANAM...

Kuttikanam has already been listed in one of my earlier blogs itself... The place is marvelous when u r permitted to have a clear vision & more so when the visibility reduces to less than 5 m aswell & when u r driving down the hill... It was fun.... The phot with headlights beaming was taken arnd 5 pm!!!

V reached well in time at Kottayam railway station to catch Vennad & Pipu had a lonely drive back!!!